Cotton over PUL Cloth Diaper Cover FREE Pattern and Tutorial
I know you all want to get right to creating your new diaper covers. I'll keep this short and simple!
First, please understand that I am a
diaper making seamstress - not a pattern maker. The pattern is hand drafted, hand drawn and scanned in - because I'm also not a computer guru! However, this pattern is tried and true - tested by many and the finished product has been used by many, so I think you'll love it.
Since the creation of this pattern in 2009 I have come up with several different versions. This is not my current version but it's relatively similar. This pattern is so good it doesn't deserve to be filed away for all eternity!
So, here we go!
**NOTE** There are LOTS of different ways to make a diaper, here is how I do it. Feel free to use any other method for completing your diaper! If you have questions please don't hesitate to ask, or email me! Keep in mind, this diaper has a snap up rise to make it one-size, without the rise snaps it's considered "LARGE"
Supplies:
Download the Pattern
PAGE 1 and
PAGE 2 (click for download- see, I'm not a computer guru- I can't figure out how to get them both on one download link, so please forgive me!)
Sewing machine with a Ballpoint needle
Scissors
Polyester Thread
KAM snaps or velcro
PUL fabric (polyurethane laminate) (at least 20"x20")**
Cotton outer fabric (20"x20")**
(pins or clips to hold pattern in place)
Approx 18" of 1/4" braided elastic
**you can use a double layer of PUL if you prefer, just make sure the shiny side faces the inside of the diaper.
Step 1: Print this One Size fits most (about 8-35 pounds) pattern for free
PAGE 1 and
PAGE 2
*Computer settings vary - be sure to print the full size pattern on 8 1/2 x 11 paper!
Once the pattern is printed, cut it out and tape it together in the center of the pattern. The pattern should measure 18 1/4" down the center line.
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| 1/2 pattern - cut on the fold. |
You can also print the pattern twice and tape all 4 pieces together!
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| Complete pattern. Cut one from each fabric. |
Step 2: Trace Diaper Pattern onto your PUL's shiny side with a ballpoint pen. This is the inside that will face the baby when the diaper is on. Be sure to transfer the snap placement, and the elastic placement marks too and then, cut it out!
Step 3: Trace the pattern onto your cotton fabric, no need to transfer the markings on this piece.
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| Both cuts of fabric. |
Step 4: Cut Elastic: 1 piece 4.25" long for the back, 2 pieces 6.25" for the legs (includes 1/8" tacking allowance.
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| 3 Pieces of Elastic |
Step 5: Layer your fabrics: PUL Shiny side up and the cotton is pretty side down (the shiny side of the PUL+the pretty side of your fabric should be kissing. :) )
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| Sorry, it's blurry. Pretty side of fabric+shiny side of PUL should be kissing! |
At this point you can place a pin or a clip at each of the elastic attachment points. Be sure to pin inside of the seam allowance so you don't get extra holes!
Step 6: Ready to sew? Place fabrics in your machine with the cotton fabric on top. Start in the center of the belly panel and using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew along the edge of the fabric.
Step 7: When you get to your first pin, grab a piece of 6 1/4" elastic for the leg. Stop your machine with the needle down into the fabric. Lift the presser foot and turn your fabric 1/4 turn - you are sewing the piece of elastic on top of the seam allowance! Stitch back and forth a few times over the elastic to tack it down.
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| Stop and pivot fabric, place elastic under the presser foot over the seam allowance. |
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| Sew over the end of the elastic a few times to tack it down. |
Step 8: Stop the machine with the needle down once again, lift the presser foot and turn the fabric to continue sewing down the edge of the leg making sure to keep the elastic to the side so you don't run it over!
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| Move the elastic to the side and continue sewing along the leg edge. |
Step 9: When you get to your next pin, stop the machine with the needle down, lift the presser foot and pivot your fabric 1/4 turn as you did before (but in the opposite direction, remember you will be sewing in the seam allowance). Now grab the end of the elastic that you tacked down on one end, and making sure that it's not twisted, tack the edge down within the seam allowance.
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| See that elastic, it's tacked at each end along the leg and within the seam allowance. |
Now, with your needle down, lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric again to continue sewing. You will be doing this again at the back and the other leg. Practice makes perfect!
Step 10: Continue sewing around the wing until you get to your pin at the back of the diaper. You will be doing the same method as above. Stop with your needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot your fabric 1/4 turn and tack the end of the elastic onto the seam allowance. Use the 4 1/4" piece of elastic at the back. You're doing great!
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| Tack down the elastic at the back of the diaper. |
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| Be sure to tack at the other end also! |
Step 11: Continue sewing around the other wing and when you get to your next elastic pin, repeat the elastic installation same way you did for the first leg elastic! (repeat steps 7-9) and continue around the diaper. Stop when you are about 2" away from your beginning stitches on the belly panel. Leave enough space to turn the diaper!
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| Leave a space for turning! |
Step 12: Snip across the seam allowance above the elastic. Be sure you don't cut into or too close to the seam. This will help it lay flat when you turn. Trim excess fabric along the edges of the belly panel and at the corners and around the wings (do not trim areas between the leg elastic, or between the back elastic).
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| Snip into the seam allowance. Do not snip too close to your seam! |
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| This is what it looks like when the rest of the edges are trimmed. |
Step 13: Turn the diaper through the hole in the front. Now, check to make sure that the pretty side of your fabric is on top and the shiny side is on the other side. Good?
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| Diaper turned to the right side. |
Step 14: Starting at the opening in the belly panel, tuck in the unfinished edges. Sew along the opening about 1/8" from the edge. Continue top stitching until you get to the first leg elastic (you should be able to feel it)
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| Tuck in the raw edges, pin if you need to in order to enclose the edges. |
Step 15: When you get to the first leg elastic, stop your machine with the needle down. At this point you will be sewing a diagonal line across the end of the elastic. This gives the elastic additional security and the increase in the seam allowance encases your elastic. Pivot the fabric so that when you continue sewing, you will have a big 1/2" seam allowance. Give the fabric a tug so the elastic straightens and lays flat against the seam. Stitch slowly 1/2" from the edge while holding the fabric flat. Remember: Go Slow, adjust and make sure the elastic doesn't get caught in the stitching.
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| Here I am at the top of the first elastic. |
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| I'm holding the fabric taut with the elastic flat, pivot the fabric and encase the elastic |
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This is what the increase in the seam allowance and encased elastic looks like when you're done.
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Step 16: When you get about 1/2" from the end of the elastic, stop your machine. Aim the fabric back towards the original top stitching seam allowance and sew a diagonal across the other end of the elastic. Go slow.
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| Stop about a half inch from the end of your elastic. |
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| Here I am at the end of the elastic and back to the top stitching seam allowance. |
Check to make sure that the elastic is encased, the edge of the diaper should be ruffled up and stretchy! Don't worry too much if your stitches are wonky. Stop your machine and pat yourself on the back. I know that takes some getting used to but it's a great method when you practice!
Step 17: Continue topstitching around the diaper and repeat steps 15 and 16 at each elastic point.
Step 18: Continue your topstitching until you get back to your starting stitches! Trim all of your threads.
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| The end! |
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| Diaper cover should look like this - no guarantee :) |
Step 19: Add your snaps. If it worked out correctly you should be able to apply your snaps using the markings that you put on the shiny side of the PUL. Place the belly snaps first using 10 sockets.
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| This is a SOCKET on the belly panel |
Continue adding the snaps. The top set of rise snaps are STUDS, and the following 3 sets are SOCKETS.
NOTE: If you have decided to use velcro here, simply place the soft part of the velcro centered over the row of snap markings on the fabric side. Sew around the edge with a zig zag stitch to secure. Cut two 1 1/2" pieces of the rough velcro and sew on the PUL side of the wings. In this case you will not be able to adjust the rise, you will have a large diaper cover. Sorry, I don't make velcro closure diapers so I don't have photos!
Step 20: Add wing snaps. Lay the wing across the belly at the desired position centered over the belly snaps. Feel for the SOCKET underneath, place the cap at the desired spot above the socket and install your first STUD. The second snap is a hip snap and this will reduce wing droop and keep the diaper secure on baby. Feel for the sockets underneath and install the second stud in the second socket from the first (skip one socket).
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| Feel for the socket under the wing. |
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| Use the cap to mark the spot and install your STUD. |
You can add a socket in between your two wing snaps on one side if you would like a cross over snap for itty bitty babies!
Now, You are done! Congratulations!
Now you can add your favorite soaking layers like Prefolds, inserts or fitteds!
I would love to see what you create from this pattern! Please Please Please share your diaper covers on the
PatsycakeBaby Facebook Page, link me on
Pinterest, tag me on
Instagram! Looking for custom cloth diaper covers? Check out my
Etsy Shop!
Enjoy!
Kim
